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Less is more
It's the venison season once again, and that means a grand variety of different dishes appearing on restaurant menus all over Scotland. In recent years, Scottish wild venison has become a beacon of quality, and its nutritional values have made it a hit with health-conscious consumers. However, with the current shortage of supply of traditional cuts such as fillets, is it now is the time to look at using different, non-traditional cuts to satisfy demand and to encourage chefs to be more creative with their use of venison?
Catering in Scotland speaks to Highland Game and Braehead Foods, and finds there's more versatility to the meat than chefs may realise…
Highland Game and Braehead Foods would firstly like to thank chefs throughout Scotland for their continued support, and for striving to promote game and venison by featuring award-winning, imaginative dishes on their establishments' menus. The Scottish game industry, including venison, has witnessed impressive growth in recent months, to the point where both trade and consumer demand, in the case of venison, is far outstripping supply. Game itself has this year enjoyed growth of 40% on last season, in part due to Scottish chefs' enthusiasm for the wide range of fresh products available. Helped by days spent shooting with chefs in the Perthshire hills, and competitions such as What's Your Game?, the popularity of game and venison is on the up. Both Highland Game and Braehead Foods acknowledge the help and support of Scottish chefs in bringing these indigenous products ever closer to the consumer, and in doing so ensuring that the future of the game industry in Scotland remains secure and vibrant for many years to come.
As proponents of persuading people to switch to venison and to try new, innovative recipes, Highland Game's Christian Nissen and Braehead Food's Craig Stevenson are now keen to promote the unusual cuts, such as Ossobuco, silverside, minced, stir-fry and diced venison.
'In these times of heightened demand and acute shortages of traditional cuts, we need to look at incorporating alternatives into our dishes,' says Christian. 'Because venison is so versatile, there are many different areas of the carcase that can be used to great effect. Ossobuco is a very decadent but underrated choice that is rarely considered by chefs. This is a shame, because aside from its taste and tenderness, it is also far cheaper than, say, a rack of ribs or a venison steak.'
Highland Game, meanwhile, are currently looking for ways to furnish chefs with a constant supply during the current shortage of traditional cuts.
'Chefs can use more of the beast,' says Craig. 'Specialist restaurants want a better choice of cuts and if we don't start using things like Ossobuco, mince and silverside, then the more expensive cuts are going to become even more expensive. Chefs should pay close attention to the prices in the next few months, as the cost will go up sharply as supply dries up.'
Typically, a kilo of strip loin currently costs around £30, while a leg-steak commands £20 per kilo. Ossobuco, on the other hand, usually costs around £5-8 per kg, and yet it can taste just as delicate as the more expensive cuts.
But it's not all about using one over the other, as Craig explains: 'The beauty of venison is that you can mix and match various cuts of the carcase, and it's very hard to tell the difference in quality. The price and availability of cheaper cuts make them so much more attractive and attainable.'
With venison of all shapes and cuts now becoming a consistent feature on menus, there is no doubt that the meat is enjoying a resurgence in popularity, and chefs appear to have more confidence in using it in different ways.
'Chefs needn't alter or reduce their own prices to reflect the fact they have paid less for the product in the first place,' concludes Christian. 'Because ossobucco generally takes as long to prepare as a regular steak or rack, chefs and restaurateurs can justifiably charge the same price, and the overall taste is very similar. We must change our habits and prejudices against these lesser-used cuts, and now is the time to do so.'
Highland Game's Scottish Wild Venison is available to the catering and restaurant trade via Braehead Foods, which offers a range of cuts including saddle, steaks, haunch, fillet, ossobucco, silverside and medallions.
Tel: 01563 550 008 for more information or to place an order.
This article has been edited from its original version. For the complete feature, please see Catering in Scotland magazine September/October 2007.
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