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(How) are you being served?
These days, when people visit hotels and restaurants, they expect a great deal more than starched tablecloths and great-tasting food, and an increasingly important aspect is how, and in what form, the cuisine is presented. Before actually enjoying it, people like to admire the look of the food, and this aesthetic art has developed into a passion for ambitious chefs.
Catering in Scotland discovers what it takes to make the most of the food you place in front clients…
The Tower, The Witchery and Rhubarb are three establishments synonymous with quality that have become a defining symbol of Edinburgh's vibrant restaurant scene. From the unique locations to the eclectic menus featuring some of the finest food available, James Thomson's respected establishments have garnered an enviable reputation for excellence over the years. All three enjoy a healthy mix of repeat visitors and tourism-based business, and much of that is down to the quality of the fare and service. However, if the three differ subtly in setting and ambience, they share a consistent component that adds to the visitor experience without many even realising it. The presentation, while largely dependent on the chef's ability to 'dish up' neatly to ensure the food looks as good as it'll taste, is also heavily reliant on the tools used to achieve this. The plates, bowls, dishes, cutlery and glassware say as much about an establishment's reputation as the food and service, and this is particularly prevalent at Thomson's establishments.
Since opening the Tower in 1998, the Edinburgh-born hotelier has sourced all his crockery from La Porcellana, the UK's sole importer of Schonwald china. The company has worked closely with James and his team to help affirm the different identities of each restaurant through the design and supply of bespoke crockery, cutlery and glassware.
'The quality of the Schonwald porcelain they use is very high,' he says. 'A lot of the china you can buy elsewhere begins to look worn and tired after many years of use, but this crockery ages very well.'
Thomson believes you shouldn't cut corners in this area: 'If you put all your efforts into creating a quality eating experience, with good food, drink and atmosphere, and then skimp on items such as cutlery and crockery, you'll be doing a disservice to yourself, your staff and your establishment. If, however, you invest in tableware that will do your food justice, you'll be adding to the quality of the visitor's experience. 'Fine china and cutlery hints subtly at the level of detail that has gone into everything else. The guests will walk through the restaurant, looking around, but knives, forks, spoons, plates and glasses are pretty much the only things the guests will come into contact with, so they should all look and feel good to the touch.'
And subtle branding also reinforces the message of quality. Each glass at The Tower has a minute letter 'T' etched into it, and while this is virtually invisible to the roaming eye, according to Thomson it emphasises the message of quality and attention to detail. Indeed, La Porcellana's in-house design and printing departments allow them to offer personalised, decorated tableware to virtually any specification.
Dale Dewberry, award-winning Restaurant Manager at Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles, also places choice of china and tableware high up on his list of priorities, but says that the core product has to top quality as well:
'If you've got a poor product, a good bit of porcelain isn't going to make it better,' he says. 'Some restaurants spend a fortune on looks but they've not committed to great cooking. Provision of good food should be everyone's priority but if you're confident that your offerings are up to scratch then the tableware you serve them on adds to the whole experience.
'When we opened we looked at all the major purveyors of the classic style of cutlery but La Porcellana's range was really well-crafted. The knives cut beautifully and they sit well in the hand and feel comfortable to use.'
Claudio Melli, Executive Assistant Manager at the Sheraton Grand Hotel and Spa, where the Santini and Santini Bis restaurants serve around 100 covers daily, says they were recommended to use Schonwald products through La Porcellana by restaurants similar to Santini: 'Schonwald and La Porcellana provide a balance between price and quality,' he says.
'Nowadays, guests are more aware of the quality and design of porcelain and cutlery. It can reflect the quality of the dining experience and stimulate chefs to be more creative.'
At Ackergill Towers in Caithness, Sabine & Ian Richards cater for a diverse and highly discerning clientele with varying requests but one common demand: consistency. 'It's true that 'you eat with your eyes,' says Ian, 'so the look of the dish as you set it down is the guest's first impression. To do the food justice the crockery has to be up to scratch.'
And even cater-hire companies, whose broad ranges of equipment cover all markets and customer needs, use Schonwald porcelain as a benchmark. Jacalyn Henderson of Gordon's Caterhire in Blairgowrie, claims that because of recent TV programmes, her clients are becoming increasingly aware of the aesthetic value of good quality equipment.
'Standards have risen over the last10 years, and customers are no longer prepared to put up with 'church hall china'. They are so much more aware of what's available and what they want – and they're quite happy to pay for it.'
As diners become more demanding and discerning in terms of what they like about a restaurant or eatery, their focus is, subliminally or otherwise, increasingly geared towards the environment around them as a whole. And, while a restaurant's ambience adds to the experience, and the food effectively is the experience, there is also no substitute for quality equipment.
So, the next time you're treated to a meal in a well-respected establishment, have a look at the tableware you're using: if it's of superior quality and makes the best of the food in front of you, the chances are you're in good hands. If not, then just be careful how you handle it…
www.laporcellana.co.uk
www.schoenwald.com
This article has been edited from its original version. For the complete feature please see Catering in Scotland magazine November/December 2006.
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