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Dundee-based venison producers, Highland Game, have worked hard to raise the profile of Scottish wild venison over the years. The meat is currently enjoying a level of popularity never before seen in the catering industry, and this is in part due to its reputation for being a lean and healthy alternative to traditional dishes. However, with demand on the rise and supply levelling out, the most pressing challenge now isn't to convince chefs and caterers to incorporate the meat into their menus; it is actually sourcing quality cuts for them in the first place. Catering in Scotland speaks to Christian Nissen to find a solution to the shortage…
The Scottish game industry has witnessed impressive growth in recent months, to the point where both trade and consumer demand, in the case of venison, is far outstripping supply. A heightened demand in the catering sector for filets, haunch, saddle and other traditional cuts has created a pronounced shortage of supplies of Scottish wild venison. To combat this challenge, Highland Game is currently identifying ways to furnish chefs with a consistent supply of traditional cuts. Managing Director Christian Nissen is advocating what some may consider to be an unorthodox solution to the problem of shortages in the market: 'When you can't get what you need from Scotland because there isn't enough to go round, it's time to explore other options,' he says. 'Last year we were urging chefs to utilise the more unusual cuts such as osso buco, silverside, minced, stir-fry and diced venison but despite this effort we are still experiencing a greater demand for the indigenous product. This year we are encouraging chefs and caterers to look beyond the home market for good quality venison – namely to the biggest supplier in the world; New Zealand.'
Having nurtured and promoted the home-produced product for so long, it may be a surprise to hear Christian extolling the virtues of the competition, as it were. As the world's largest producer and exporter of venison, New Zealand could also be seen as the single biggest threat to the Scottish venison industry, although neither Christian nor Craig see it that way: 'It is not news that food prices are rising around the world,' he says. 'Everywhere you look there is a report of increasing prices somewhere, but in Scotland it is not only because of the current negative economic forces at work around the world. 'Now that chefs are realising the unique benefits of venison and are adding it in various forms to their menus, we are facing the new problems of Scottish supplies levelling out. Wild venison is available in relatively small quantities but the increased demand will continue to have a negative effect on prices by increasing them exponentially.
'At the moment we are only in a position to guarantee supplies by sourcing it from New Zealand. The supply base there means that we can fulfil all orders, all year round, even when there are shortages in Scotland.'
Christian is keen to point out the advantages of turning to the New Zealand product when supplies dry up here:
'It's important that we see this as an opportunity, not as a threat. The whole industry must realise that it's not a two-tier level of quality; you can find consistently good venison from suppliers both here and in New Zealand, and the presentation is similar, too. On either continent, the meat has to be produced to the same high standard as beef, lamb or pork, and in New Zealand it is treated the same as it is here. Quality, quality, quality - it is so important.'
However, another common misconception about rising prices stems from consumer cynicism in these times of economic uncertainty: 'I do not want people to think it is us [Highland Game and Braehead Foods] who are reaping the benefits of these price rises,' adds Christian. 'Venison is becoming more expensive but it is like we are being punished for our success. We have outgrown our own expectations and now we are faced with difficulties of supply. I do want to emphasise, though, that we are not by any means making a killing from this situation. If anything, by recommending to chefs that they buy from abroad, we are assisting the competition with their own growth. But I also like to think we are stabilising our own market and ensuring that chefs are not put off using venison because of temporary dips in supply.
'Scottish wild venison a hugely important asset for this country and it's one of the last natural products to exist. It's a wonderful alternative to other meats but in times of heightened demand and short supply we need to look further afield, and New Zealand can provide a year-round solution.'
Highland Game's Scottish wild venison and its New Zealand alternative is available to the catering and restaurant trade via Braehead Foods, which offers a range of cuts including saddle, steaks, haunch, fillet, ossobucco, silverside and medallions.
Highland Game's newest product - venison pizza - will be available in a catering format and in Sainsbury's stores from 1st December.
It's game on at Braeheadfoods.com
After nearly twenty years at their well-known premises on the Crawfordland Estate and Bonnyton Industrial Unit, Kilmarnock, Braehead Foods recently moved to an enormous, purpose-built facility near Crosshouse in Ayrshire, and have launched their brand-new website to help cope with a sharp increase in business. With 70 staff and over 30,000sq.ft of floor space from which they process and deliver high quality meats, cheeses, cooking oils and chocolate to restaurants, hotels, chefs and caterers all over the country, the leading game and venison supplier has expanded in line with demand: 'We were quite restricted before with regard to workspace but having relocated we can now provide a much better service to our customers,' says Managing Director, Craig Stevenson. 'The new website is helping hugely, too. I'm not exactly known for my IT skills and it's only taken 10 years of nagging from my family, staff and customers to launch the new site but it's already helping to promote us online; we got 19,000 hits alone last month and we only launched it in July.'
Aside from the rapid expansion of their existing business, Braehead also has imminent plans to open a cook school, retail shop and restaurant at the Crosshouse premises, the latter of which will feed neighbouring businesses from 6am to 3pm each working day: We've got Jason McNelly in charge of the public side of the new cookery school, and Albert Roux's protégée, Steven Doherty, heading up the professional chefs side,' continues Craig. 'We are incredibly fortunate to have the support of such a groundbreaking chef as Steven, and through master classes he'll be encouraging the participation of professional chefs in Scotland, and helping to promote game and venison to an ever-widening fan base.'
With steep demand for their products, a burgeoning workforce and ambitious plans in place, it's obvious Braehead Foods are gearing up for another decade at the top of their game.
Look out for the next edition of Catering in Scotland for an in-depth look at Braehead's new factory and cook school.
Visit www.braeheadfoods.com or call 01563 550 008 for more information or to place an order.
This article has been edited from its original version. For the complete feature, please see Catering in Scotland magazine November/December 2008.
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