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A chef in a chef's Kitchin
Scottish-born and recently Michelin-starred chef Tom Kitchin kick-started his career at Gleneagles, moving on to work at Pierre Koffmann's La Tante Claire, the Guy Savoy in Paris, and Alain Ducasse's Louis XV in Monte Carlo.
The aptly named restaurant which opened last year on Edinburgh's Commercial Quay was the brainchild of Kitchin and his Swedish wife, Michaela.
Jemma Foster popped down for a taste…
The menu here is dependent on the availability of local seasonal produce, and it can change on a daily basis. Kitchin's French training is evident, and all the produce is prepared by him in a way that is approachable, appealing and not at all stuffy.
"This is a chef's restaurant, and anyone coming here for a meal has a right to expect it to have been prepared by the chef," he says. Aiding (or, as some might see it, exposing) Tom in his quest for honest, open, theatre-style cooking methods, is the glass-fronted kitchen that takes centre stage and allows diners to see him perform his culinary magic tricks.
The space at The Kitchin is entirely in keeping with the location; interior-designed industrial chic in which to put your feet up and while away the hours. It has the flexibility of providing the perfect backdrop for a business lunch while at the same time allowing room for a long, relaxed dinner for two, or ten.
My exquisite Tartare of Mackerel starter came wrapped in a delicate blanket of cucumber in a beetroot and cucumber dressing, with its own little quail egg and curly melba toast.
The melt-in-the-mouth, hand-dived west coast scallops arrived on a bed of sautéed and pureed broccoli with crispy pancetta, followed by seared fresh halibut with ginger & tomato chutney, herb beurre blanc and hazelnut oil. The roast loin of lamb cooked with Szechwan pepper and lemon zest and accompanied by a red onion compote felt almost heavy in comparison, and yet it too was deliciously pleasing to the palate.
The Kitchin's lengthy house-wine selection complements the menu well and ensures the perfect partner for your meal; we washed ours down with a bottle of the South African Veldt Range Chenin Blanc. There is also a lengthier list of wines of a higher calibre and price, hand-picked by Tom and Michaela, ranging from £16 to £58.50. "We wanted to move away from the stigma of the 'house' wine, and instead place the emphasis on drinkable treats that complement the food, and fine wines with merits that are pondered and appreciated," says Michaela.
With Tom's expertise and Michaela's hospitality background - ranging from the Savoy Group to Dubai's 7-star Burj Al Arab - the pair have taken on Edinburgh's vibrant and varied restaurant scene with enthusiasm and originality.
Get down there and see for yourself.
This article has been edited from its original version. For the complete feature please see Catering in Scotland magazine May/June 2007.
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